Installing a 3.5 "Screw Inside the Chipped Xbox 360

In the summer of 2009, the Xbox 360 Elite 120GB (Jasper) was acquired.

For two years, it was used for its intended purpose with licensed games. Then it got a little fed up, decided on the firmware of the drive, flashed it, cut the blanks, everything seemed to be fine, but something was missing, there was not enough freedom of action with this “box”.

And in the winter of 2012 I decided to chip the console, just at that time the Matrix Glitcher V2 chip came out with a more stable launch of the console, with the choice of revising the console on the board with switches. I ordered 2 jokes (me and a colleague) and a programmer.

Here came such a chip:
I will not tell you the details of installing the chip and the firmware of the console, as well as the possibilities of the prefix after chipovka, because there are a lot of manuals, I will only say a couple of directions:
- A stable start of the console depends on the location of the chip, for me it's on the chip next to the connector screen, and not on it (the screen), as many recommend.
- Also, the launch speed of the console depends on the length and location of the wire of point A (white in the photo)
- You need to be very careful when soldering point C (and it is better to fix it immediately with glue, orange in the photo)
I have the chip installed and the wire routing of point A looks like this :
As you can see, in the previous photo the SATA cable was lit. This photo is already an upgrade for installing a 3.5 screw inside the case.
I decided to get rid of the drive, since it is not needed at all on the chip-board console, and for the place it was decided to install a 2TB screw from the media console, which was idle.

First, I called the connector of the original box for the HDD Xbox, then the connector on the board and 8 pads on the board, it turned out that they are located in the "correct" order:
Earth, A +, A-, Earth, Earth, B-, B + , Earth
Roughly speaking, we cut the SATA cable and get soldered to the contact tracks in a row (you can not solder the earth in any way, but I soldered) The
power for the screw is taken from the drive power:
Just solder +5, +12, GND to the SATA power cable (Yellow +12 , Red +5, Black - GND)

The screw is placed close to the side wall, the ventilation holes just fit the screw fastening holes.
I had to file the ventilation cover a bit:
In this position, the screw “hangs” over the radiator, it was necessary to put something under it, and so as not to impair heat transfer. The solution was a fan 60 * 60 * 15: I
connected it to the power supply of the main cooler through the splitter that came bundled with the DEEPCOOL cooler, it turned out something like this: Keep in
mind that the pinout is non-standard there, I had to change a couple of wires with my hands.
The colors are clearly visible in the photo, I think there will be no questions.

The installed screw in the console looks like this:

It remains only to slightly upgrade the top cover of the Xbox, namely to remove or make a cutout in the metal screen and cut off several stiffeners with a clerical knife so that they do not interfere with the installation.
I do not have a photo of this process, since I cut my finger very hard while cutting plastic, be careful!

Type of set-top box with a closed case:
It is also necessary to glue or otherwise secure the front panel from the DVD drive.
I just melted it with a soldering iron from the inside to hold it:
Put the front panel in place and enjoy the “new” xbox 360 with 2TB on board!

It remains only to format the screw using standard system tools:

With this upgrade, it remains possible to use the original Xbox 360 screw (of course, if the internal one is not connected).
In the future, I plan to modify the console cooling system in order to reduce the noise level.